Julian Haart Riesling 1000L Fuder 2020
100% Riesling. This wine is always brisk, tense with high-toned citrus, and has good minerality. Julian’s wines are Moselle wines of consequence. It is why these wines have infatuated the wine world and are so hard to come by.
Vintage: 2020 | Producer: Julian Haart
Country: Germany | Area: Mosel
Varietal: Riesling | Style: White
Story Behind the Wine:
The wines showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to fine dust, coats everything.
The Riesling 1000L is normally dry or very close to dry and sourced from 25-year-old vines in the Grand Cru Goldtröpfchen vineyard. The “1,000L” is so-named because it is a wine that was, originally, a chosen Fuder – a 1,000L barrel. The entire barrel was bought, and that was that.
About the Producer:
Julian Haart apprenticed with Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller. That’s like learning to draw under da Vinci and Picasso. Julian’s first vintage under his own label was in 2010 and people immediately took notice.
Since vintage 2010 the wines have only gotten better, and while few cases are released in the U.S. every year, Julian is earning a pretty serious following. And it hasn’t gone to his head – he’s still as cool as shit. The estate has grown to a little more than four hectares and this is, roughly, where Julian wants it to stay.
Part of the joy of winemaking, for Julian, is doing everything, just he and his wife Nadine, and maybe some friends. This is vineyard work, and winemaking, at the most human scale. Nearly everything must be done by hand – most of the vineyards are steep as hell and most of them are terraced. Even walking through them is a bit hazardous. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel-hommage to Keller.