100% Dolcetto. The quality of Dolcetto from the village of Dogliani has been skyrocketing in the last few years, and Anna Maria’s work is a good example of this. Her oldest vines were planted by her grandfather in the thirties, and the vineyards are steep and perfectly exposed. More recently she has become a convert to the doctrine of low yields, and she has joined the elite of Dogliani. First, understand that producers in Dogliani take Dolcetto as seriously as producers in Barolo take Nebbiolo. Dolcetto is planted in all the best sites and vinified with great care, which is not always the case with Dolcetto d’Alba. Second, understand that Dolcetto is not the Beaujolais of Italy. The best modern Dolcettos have inky color, lashings of blueberry fruit, and tannins to match. In fact, the concentration of top Dogliani wines has reached a point where the tannins need to be carefully managed to be pleasant. If you want proof that Dolcetto is not ‘the Beaujolais of Italy,’ pour yourself a glass of Anna Maria’s Maioli. The fruit comes from very old vines planted in the ’30s by Anna Maria’s uncle. The wine is violet-tinged deep purple, a very inviting color; it smells of violets, Assam tea leaves, and blueberries; and it is a mouth-filling, deep, substantial wine to drink. ‘Una bomba,’ as they say in Italy, and an excellent wine to pair with food. See why we love these Dolcetto’s and why they’re unlike any other Dolcetto out there.